And then the rains came.
After a decade of well below average rainfall we are about to break the 1000mm mark. The decade prior to the long running drought we were used to totals around 750mm. What a remarkable surprise this spring has been. Dams that had not filled since the late 1990s have overflowed several times over. We have completely saturated soils that are so waterlogged we are having troubles getting the tractor into the vineyard. This is a long forgotten problem but given the long, long dry it's a healthy problem to have.
South Eastern Australia has welcomed the rain but less welcome has been the warm, humid conditions that are creating huge disease pressure. We have made many passes through the vineyard by hand to remove water shoots and shoots from the vines' crowns. The canopy is open and airy and any basic sulphur and copper applications are highly effective and we continue not to use any systemic sprays. So far, we have not had any outbreak of mildews. Timing in seasons like this is critical and timing has been made doubly difficult due to the wet ground and frequent thunderstorms and rain events.
The 2010 red wines are nearly through malo and ready for raking off lees. The chardonnays are still on lees and will also be racked in the next few months. The wines are showing a lot of power and intensity with particularly deep, long finishes. It will be very interesting to see their form after racking and being returned to barrel.
Yesterday we noticed the first sign of flowering and today there is a little more widespread. We require warm, even weather during this time and I note the forecast is for thunderstorms and wind. It really is that type of contrary season.
Monday, December 6, 2010
Saturday, October 2, 2010
The winter was so cold my fingers froze and I was unable to key any blog entries. Well almost, but not quite. Hybernation aside, we have had a brilliant traditional winter of cold and rain. Our dams are nearly full and the vineyard has superb soil moisture to begin the season.
The 2010 wines are still resting at winter temperatures of around 10 degrees but will soon begin to finish their malo lactic conversion (for the reds). Soon enough we will be racking and freshening the wines and getting a good take on their style and quality. At this point 2010 has very good intensity and concentration. Less suppleness than 2008, not the perfume of 2009 but structure and depth from an excellent season.
We have had our recently installed frost fan doing its work the past two nights. The leaves are not yet out however the pushing buds are still susceptible to plunging temperatures and the frigid reality of Spring time frost. Two nights ago we had minus 3.5 degrees 100m outside the vineyard and the fan worked perfectly by drawing down warm air (3.7 degrees at ten meters above ground level) and mixing into with the frosty air. We can expect some more events between now and early November.
The fifth edition of Langton's Classification has come out and we are pleased to have Block 5 and Original Vineyard included amongst the 123 wines. Twenty vintages in we feel we are maturing across the facets of our work and are looking to put our increasing understanding into ever more detailed, focused projects. More on that as it unfolds over the next few years.
For those who are passionate about Burgundy, food and travel please have a look at our friend Jillian Francis' website, www.tastesofburgundy.com. Jillian is working with some exceptionally talented chefs and has trod the ground, descended into the cellars and dined at some of the most inspiring tables in Burgundy to create a hedonistic experience.
The 2010 wines are still resting at winter temperatures of around 10 degrees but will soon begin to finish their malo lactic conversion (for the reds). Soon enough we will be racking and freshening the wines and getting a good take on their style and quality. At this point 2010 has very good intensity and concentration. Less suppleness than 2008, not the perfume of 2009 but structure and depth from an excellent season.
We have had our recently installed frost fan doing its work the past two nights. The leaves are not yet out however the pushing buds are still susceptible to plunging temperatures and the frigid reality of Spring time frost. Two nights ago we had minus 3.5 degrees 100m outside the vineyard and the fan worked perfectly by drawing down warm air (3.7 degrees at ten meters above ground level) and mixing into with the frosty air. We can expect some more events between now and early November.
The fifth edition of Langton's Classification has come out and we are pleased to have Block 5 and Original Vineyard included amongst the 123 wines. Twenty vintages in we feel we are maturing across the facets of our work and are looking to put our increasing understanding into ever more detailed, focused projects. More on that as it unfolds over the next few years.
For those who are passionate about Burgundy, food and travel please have a look at our friend Jillian Francis' website, www.tastesofburgundy.com. Jillian is working with some exceptionally talented chefs and has trod the ground, descended into the cellars and dined at some of the most inspiring tables in Burgundy to create a hedonistic experience.
Thursday, June 17, 2010
The onset of Winter
The vines are dormant and pruning has commenced. The ferments are done and the 2010 wines are peacefully resting in their barrels. It is a tranquil, if freezing, time of the year.
The 2010 Summer was characterised by slightly higher than average temperatures of which the feature was 120 days where the Melbourne maximum did not fall below 20 degrees. It certainly was not a hot summer and we only had one day above 40 and very few days in the mid 30s. The acidities are very good and the wines have a lovely intensity and tightness. The chardonnays are quite piercing and the Quartz is displaying a pleasing richness and power. The pinot noirs have clear varietal and vineyard expression and seem to have a deeper than usual tannin structure and drive. After the much reduced volume of 2009 we have a good volume of 2010 where yields were around the five tonnes per hectare.
We now have 27 solar panels adorning the winery roof harvesting the sun's energy. Pleasingly, the roof pretty much faces north and is clear of shading so it is an ideal location. It is a great pleasure to both see the panels basking in the light and to see the meter turning backwards as we put power back into the grid. This system will produce around three times as much power as we consume so we will be selling our excess to the power company. The payback period is expected to be between five to six years.
The other capital work going on presently is the installation of a ten metre high frost fan. We have used water sprinklers to combat spring frost for the last decade but with so little run off and a recently installed bore that is a bit too saline we have turned (!) to a turbine to protect the fragile spring shoots. Movement of air will work for most of the frosts (down to around minus 2) we experience but in the event of a black/inversion frost, where the above air is freezing as well as the ground air, we will revert to our sprinklers which will protect by continually applying water. As the water freezes energy is produced and stops the shoot/bud temperature falling below about -0.5. The vines look dramatic in the morning when they are covered in ice but the shoots remain undamaged.
There is always another project to take on. The old shearing shed is next in line, then there's about five kilometers of fencing that needs replacing. It'd be lovely to sneak in a few more acres of vines on a couple of outstanding sites just over the ridge from Block 5. One year we keep saying. One year!
The 2010 Summer was characterised by slightly higher than average temperatures of which the feature was 120 days where the Melbourne maximum did not fall below 20 degrees. It certainly was not a hot summer and we only had one day above 40 and very few days in the mid 30s. The acidities are very good and the wines have a lovely intensity and tightness. The chardonnays are quite piercing and the Quartz is displaying a pleasing richness and power. The pinot noirs have clear varietal and vineyard expression and seem to have a deeper than usual tannin structure and drive. After the much reduced volume of 2009 we have a good volume of 2010 where yields were around the five tonnes per hectare.
We now have 27 solar panels adorning the winery roof harvesting the sun's energy. Pleasingly, the roof pretty much faces north and is clear of shading so it is an ideal location. It is a great pleasure to both see the panels basking in the light and to see the meter turning backwards as we put power back into the grid. This system will produce around three times as much power as we consume so we will be selling our excess to the power company. The payback period is expected to be between five to six years.
The other capital work going on presently is the installation of a ten metre high frost fan. We have used water sprinklers to combat spring frost for the last decade but with so little run off and a recently installed bore that is a bit too saline we have turned (!) to a turbine to protect the fragile spring shoots. Movement of air will work for most of the frosts (down to around minus 2) we experience but in the event of a black/inversion frost, where the above air is freezing as well as the ground air, we will revert to our sprinklers which will protect by continually applying water. As the water freezes energy is produced and stops the shoot/bud temperature falling below about -0.5. The vines look dramatic in the morning when they are covered in ice but the shoots remain undamaged.
There is always another project to take on. The old shearing shed is next in line, then there's about five kilometers of fencing that needs replacing. It'd be lovely to sneak in a few more acres of vines on a couple of outstanding sites just over the ridge from Block 5. One year we keep saying. One year!
Thursday, March 18, 2010
The contrast between February 2009 and 2010 could not be more dramatic. Last year we experienced four days over 40 degree whereas this year we have barely had a day over 30 degrees. A welcome added bonus has been over 70mm of rainfall which has help put the vines in excellent condition as we progress towards harvest. The weather has been, and continues to be, more indicative of mid to late Autumn conditions which is quite remarkable after the past four seasons. It is a very pleasing change.
The 2010 Pyrette Shiraz has fermented well and is resting in barrel. It has an outstanding colour, very deep and complex fruit aromatics and the tannins are becoming quite voluminous and quite fine. In another few weeks when it has begun to settle it will be really interesting to observe its personality.
On Saturday the 27th of February we bottled the 2009 Pyrette and the 2009 Bindi Composition Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The wines have gone very well into bottle and I expect them to be looking fantastic when they are released in June. The Chardonnay is very vibrant and pure with wonderful intensity. The Pinot is gorgeous for its red fruits and spice and balance. The Shiraz is complex with red and dark cherries, earth and spice and has lovely flair and harmony. The 2009 Quartz, Original Vineyard and Block 5 remain in barrel and will be bottled in July for release in October.
We have also disgorged and packed some 2003 Chardonnay/Pinot Sparkling for release in June. It has had six years on lees and is super intense and focused.
Thankfully we have dodged the hail and are looking forward to harvesting the fruit this coming weekend. The vines are in excellent health: there is no disease despite the frequent rain and humid weather.
The 2010 Pyrette Shiraz has fermented well and is resting in barrel. It has an outstanding colour, very deep and complex fruit aromatics and the tannins are becoming quite voluminous and quite fine. In another few weeks when it has begun to settle it will be really interesting to observe its personality.
On Saturday the 27th of February we bottled the 2009 Pyrette and the 2009 Bindi Composition Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The wines have gone very well into bottle and I expect them to be looking fantastic when they are released in June. The Chardonnay is very vibrant and pure with wonderful intensity. The Pinot is gorgeous for its red fruits and spice and balance. The Shiraz is complex with red and dark cherries, earth and spice and has lovely flair and harmony. The 2009 Quartz, Original Vineyard and Block 5 remain in barrel and will be bottled in July for release in October.
We have also disgorged and packed some 2003 Chardonnay/Pinot Sparkling for release in June. It has had six years on lees and is super intense and focused.
Thankfully we have dodged the hail and are looking forward to harvesting the fruit this coming weekend. The vines are in excellent health: there is no disease despite the frequent rain and humid weather.
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
The 2010 season is progressing well. We have completed our crop thinning and the first signs of colour change in a very few pinot noir berries is just appearing. We expect the full veraison to take place in the first week of February which indicates a harvest time towards the end of March. Next week we will begin putting out the nets to protect the ripening fruit from the birds.
I visited the Heathcote vineyard yesterday and the fruit is looking very good. The crop is around the 2.5 tonnes per acre mark (about 6 tonnes per hectare) and the canopy is full and green but certainly not dense or vigorous. The crop will be hand harvested around the 20th February.
The 2009 Composition wines and the 2009 Pyrette Shiraz are coming towards the end of their time in barrel and will be bottle on February the 27th. They are looking absolutely delicious and I am quite excited about their style and quality.
I visited the Heathcote vineyard yesterday and the fruit is looking very good. The crop is around the 2.5 tonnes per acre mark (about 6 tonnes per hectare) and the canopy is full and green but certainly not dense or vigorous. The crop will be hand harvested around the 20th February.
The 2009 Composition wines and the 2009 Pyrette Shiraz are coming towards the end of their time in barrel and will be bottle on February the 27th. They are looking absolutely delicious and I am quite excited about their style and quality.
Monday, January 4, 2010
Happy New Year
We enter a new year debating what to call it. Twenty Ten is what I'm going with. But I will accept Two Thousand and Ten!
The vines are looking excellent apart from some very minor hail damage from last week's thunderstorm. The loss would be well below half of one percent. The damaged berries are already drying up and will shortly fall from the bunch.
The season has been impressive for the consistent falls of good rain that are maintaining excellent soil moisture with the follow up of warm, dry weather that has kept disease pressure low. The canopy and fruit is in excellent health. We have already dropped some fruit from small canes and removed some lateral shoots on the eastern side of the canopy to allow for greater sunlight and air penetration. Even though we did not experience any shrivel or sunburn last February we are not doing any removal of shoots on the western side for fear of extreme heat and the possibility of sunburn.
Over the last two weeks we have racked all the 2009 wines for the first time off lees and sulphured them and returned them to barrel. The wines were on lees for around nine months. Now that they are settling down the true nature of each wine is more transparent and the quality of the vintage is evident. The wines are very intense and complex. There is a bit of 2005 following 2004 going on with 2009 following 2008. By this I mean a year of extra intensity and complexity following a vintage of super perfume and silkiness. That said, 2005 had more acidity where as 2009 has more tannin. Generalisations, of course, but it's always a interesting mindset to compare and interpret each new vintage in relation to those gone by.
We turn our thoughts to the netting early February, bottling 2009 Compositions and 2009 Pyrette late February and the receipt of the 2010 Pyrette Shiraz grapes late February, early March.
The vines are looking excellent apart from some very minor hail damage from last week's thunderstorm. The loss would be well below half of one percent. The damaged berries are already drying up and will shortly fall from the bunch.
The season has been impressive for the consistent falls of good rain that are maintaining excellent soil moisture with the follow up of warm, dry weather that has kept disease pressure low. The canopy and fruit is in excellent health. We have already dropped some fruit from small canes and removed some lateral shoots on the eastern side of the canopy to allow for greater sunlight and air penetration. Even though we did not experience any shrivel or sunburn last February we are not doing any removal of shoots on the western side for fear of extreme heat and the possibility of sunburn.
Over the last two weeks we have racked all the 2009 wines for the first time off lees and sulphured them and returned them to barrel. The wines were on lees for around nine months. Now that they are settling down the true nature of each wine is more transparent and the quality of the vintage is evident. The wines are very intense and complex. There is a bit of 2005 following 2004 going on with 2009 following 2008. By this I mean a year of extra intensity and complexity following a vintage of super perfume and silkiness. That said, 2005 had more acidity where as 2009 has more tannin. Generalisations, of course, but it's always a interesting mindset to compare and interpret each new vintage in relation to those gone by.
We turn our thoughts to the netting early February, bottling 2009 Compositions and 2009 Pyrette late February and the receipt of the 2010 Pyrette Shiraz grapes late February, early March.
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