Since when was the sub tropics moved to southern Victoria? The cool, elevated Macedon ranges felt like central Victoria for a decade and now we feel like grape growers in Byron Bay. Without the beach, sadly.
Dams that did not fill for a decade have continually overflowed from December to now. Long term, great for the landscape. Short term, a lot of focus on the vineyard with tractor work, shoot removal, fruit dropping, trimming and broken sleep wondering what the rain and humidity is doing to the canopy.
So far the vineyard is healthy and fruit is clean. We will see. The first veraising berry was seen yesterday so we are still 10 days away from getting right into the colour change and sugar accumulation phase. After that we will need around six weeks to achieve ripeness. It looks to be a long, humid, frustrating push to harvest. We will delay putting the bird nets on as long as possible so we can continue to work on the canopy. I was speaking with Stuart Anderson last week and asked if he'd ever seen a season like this in his 50 years of wine life. "Never' was the response. Sure, summer rain events and thunderstorms had highlighted some growing seasons but never the continual humidity and frequency of tropical weather being pushed south.
On a joyous note, we bottled the Composition Chardonnay, Composition Pinot Noir and Pyrette Shiraz from 2010 last Sunday and they are all looking to be of excellent quality. Sure, they now need several months to settle but the harmony and depth of the vintage is very pleasing and come release time in June they will be opening up again. The Quartz, Original Vineyard and Block 5 will be bottled in June and they have wonderful depth and structure.
Friday, February 18, 2011
Monday, December 6, 2010
And then the rains came.
After a decade of well below average rainfall we are about to break the 1000mm mark. The decade prior to the long running drought we were used to totals around 750mm. What a remarkable surprise this spring has been. Dams that had not filled since the late 1990s have overflowed several times over. We have completely saturated soils that are so waterlogged we are having troubles getting the tractor into the vineyard. This is a long forgotten problem but given the long, long dry it's a healthy problem to have.
South Eastern Australia has welcomed the rain but less welcome has been the warm, humid conditions that are creating huge disease pressure. We have made many passes through the vineyard by hand to remove water shoots and shoots from the vines' crowns. The canopy is open and airy and any basic sulphur and copper applications are highly effective and we continue not to use any systemic sprays. So far, we have not had any outbreak of mildews. Timing in seasons like this is critical and timing has been made doubly difficult due to the wet ground and frequent thunderstorms and rain events.
The 2010 red wines are nearly through malo and ready for raking off lees. The chardonnays are still on lees and will also be racked in the next few months. The wines are showing a lot of power and intensity with particularly deep, long finishes. It will be very interesting to see their form after racking and being returned to barrel.
Yesterday we noticed the first sign of flowering and today there is a little more widespread. We require warm, even weather during this time and I note the forecast is for thunderstorms and wind. It really is that type of contrary season.
After a decade of well below average rainfall we are about to break the 1000mm mark. The decade prior to the long running drought we were used to totals around 750mm. What a remarkable surprise this spring has been. Dams that had not filled since the late 1990s have overflowed several times over. We have completely saturated soils that are so waterlogged we are having troubles getting the tractor into the vineyard. This is a long forgotten problem but given the long, long dry it's a healthy problem to have.
South Eastern Australia has welcomed the rain but less welcome has been the warm, humid conditions that are creating huge disease pressure. We have made many passes through the vineyard by hand to remove water shoots and shoots from the vines' crowns. The canopy is open and airy and any basic sulphur and copper applications are highly effective and we continue not to use any systemic sprays. So far, we have not had any outbreak of mildews. Timing in seasons like this is critical and timing has been made doubly difficult due to the wet ground and frequent thunderstorms and rain events.
The 2010 red wines are nearly through malo and ready for raking off lees. The chardonnays are still on lees and will also be racked in the next few months. The wines are showing a lot of power and intensity with particularly deep, long finishes. It will be very interesting to see their form after racking and being returned to barrel.
Yesterday we noticed the first sign of flowering and today there is a little more widespread. We require warm, even weather during this time and I note the forecast is for thunderstorms and wind. It really is that type of contrary season.
Saturday, October 2, 2010
The winter was so cold my fingers froze and I was unable to key any blog entries. Well almost, but not quite. Hybernation aside, we have had a brilliant traditional winter of cold and rain. Our dams are nearly full and the vineyard has superb soil moisture to begin the season.
The 2010 wines are still resting at winter temperatures of around 10 degrees but will soon begin to finish their malo lactic conversion (for the reds). Soon enough we will be racking and freshening the wines and getting a good take on their style and quality. At this point 2010 has very good intensity and concentration. Less suppleness than 2008, not the perfume of 2009 but structure and depth from an excellent season.
We have had our recently installed frost fan doing its work the past two nights. The leaves are not yet out however the pushing buds are still susceptible to plunging temperatures and the frigid reality of Spring time frost. Two nights ago we had minus 3.5 degrees 100m outside the vineyard and the fan worked perfectly by drawing down warm air (3.7 degrees at ten meters above ground level) and mixing into with the frosty air. We can expect some more events between now and early November.
The fifth edition of Langton's Classification has come out and we are pleased to have Block 5 and Original Vineyard included amongst the 123 wines. Twenty vintages in we feel we are maturing across the facets of our work and are looking to put our increasing understanding into ever more detailed, focused projects. More on that as it unfolds over the next few years.
For those who are passionate about Burgundy, food and travel please have a look at our friend Jillian Francis' website, www.tastesofburgundy.com. Jillian is working with some exceptionally talented chefs and has trod the ground, descended into the cellars and dined at some of the most inspiring tables in Burgundy to create a hedonistic experience.
The 2010 wines are still resting at winter temperatures of around 10 degrees but will soon begin to finish their malo lactic conversion (for the reds). Soon enough we will be racking and freshening the wines and getting a good take on their style and quality. At this point 2010 has very good intensity and concentration. Less suppleness than 2008, not the perfume of 2009 but structure and depth from an excellent season.
We have had our recently installed frost fan doing its work the past two nights. The leaves are not yet out however the pushing buds are still susceptible to plunging temperatures and the frigid reality of Spring time frost. Two nights ago we had minus 3.5 degrees 100m outside the vineyard and the fan worked perfectly by drawing down warm air (3.7 degrees at ten meters above ground level) and mixing into with the frosty air. We can expect some more events between now and early November.
The fifth edition of Langton's Classification has come out and we are pleased to have Block 5 and Original Vineyard included amongst the 123 wines. Twenty vintages in we feel we are maturing across the facets of our work and are looking to put our increasing understanding into ever more detailed, focused projects. More on that as it unfolds over the next few years.
For those who are passionate about Burgundy, food and travel please have a look at our friend Jillian Francis' website, www.tastesofburgundy.com. Jillian is working with some exceptionally talented chefs and has trod the ground, descended into the cellars and dined at some of the most inspiring tables in Burgundy to create a hedonistic experience.
Thursday, June 17, 2010
The onset of Winter
The vines are dormant and pruning has commenced. The ferments are done and the 2010 wines are peacefully resting in their barrels. It is a tranquil, if freezing, time of the year.
The 2010 Summer was characterised by slightly higher than average temperatures of which the feature was 120 days where the Melbourne maximum did not fall below 20 degrees. It certainly was not a hot summer and we only had one day above 40 and very few days in the mid 30s. The acidities are very good and the wines have a lovely intensity and tightness. The chardonnays are quite piercing and the Quartz is displaying a pleasing richness and power. The pinot noirs have clear varietal and vineyard expression and seem to have a deeper than usual tannin structure and drive. After the much reduced volume of 2009 we have a good volume of 2010 where yields were around the five tonnes per hectare.
We now have 27 solar panels adorning the winery roof harvesting the sun's energy. Pleasingly, the roof pretty much faces north and is clear of shading so it is an ideal location. It is a great pleasure to both see the panels basking in the light and to see the meter turning backwards as we put power back into the grid. This system will produce around three times as much power as we consume so we will be selling our excess to the power company. The payback period is expected to be between five to six years.
The other capital work going on presently is the installation of a ten metre high frost fan. We have used water sprinklers to combat spring frost for the last decade but with so little run off and a recently installed bore that is a bit too saline we have turned (!) to a turbine to protect the fragile spring shoots. Movement of air will work for most of the frosts (down to around minus 2) we experience but in the event of a black/inversion frost, where the above air is freezing as well as the ground air, we will revert to our sprinklers which will protect by continually applying water. As the water freezes energy is produced and stops the shoot/bud temperature falling below about -0.5. The vines look dramatic in the morning when they are covered in ice but the shoots remain undamaged.
There is always another project to take on. The old shearing shed is next in line, then there's about five kilometers of fencing that needs replacing. It'd be lovely to sneak in a few more acres of vines on a couple of outstanding sites just over the ridge from Block 5. One year we keep saying. One year!
The 2010 Summer was characterised by slightly higher than average temperatures of which the feature was 120 days where the Melbourne maximum did not fall below 20 degrees. It certainly was not a hot summer and we only had one day above 40 and very few days in the mid 30s. The acidities are very good and the wines have a lovely intensity and tightness. The chardonnays are quite piercing and the Quartz is displaying a pleasing richness and power. The pinot noirs have clear varietal and vineyard expression and seem to have a deeper than usual tannin structure and drive. After the much reduced volume of 2009 we have a good volume of 2010 where yields were around the five tonnes per hectare.
We now have 27 solar panels adorning the winery roof harvesting the sun's energy. Pleasingly, the roof pretty much faces north and is clear of shading so it is an ideal location. It is a great pleasure to both see the panels basking in the light and to see the meter turning backwards as we put power back into the grid. This system will produce around three times as much power as we consume so we will be selling our excess to the power company. The payback period is expected to be between five to six years.
The other capital work going on presently is the installation of a ten metre high frost fan. We have used water sprinklers to combat spring frost for the last decade but with so little run off and a recently installed bore that is a bit too saline we have turned (!) to a turbine to protect the fragile spring shoots. Movement of air will work for most of the frosts (down to around minus 2) we experience but in the event of a black/inversion frost, where the above air is freezing as well as the ground air, we will revert to our sprinklers which will protect by continually applying water. As the water freezes energy is produced and stops the shoot/bud temperature falling below about -0.5. The vines look dramatic in the morning when they are covered in ice but the shoots remain undamaged.
There is always another project to take on. The old shearing shed is next in line, then there's about five kilometers of fencing that needs replacing. It'd be lovely to sneak in a few more acres of vines on a couple of outstanding sites just over the ridge from Block 5. One year we keep saying. One year!
Thursday, March 18, 2010
The contrast between February 2009 and 2010 could not be more dramatic. Last year we experienced four days over 40 degree whereas this year we have barely had a day over 30 degrees. A welcome added bonus has been over 70mm of rainfall which has help put the vines in excellent condition as we progress towards harvest. The weather has been, and continues to be, more indicative of mid to late Autumn conditions which is quite remarkable after the past four seasons. It is a very pleasing change.
The 2010 Pyrette Shiraz has fermented well and is resting in barrel. It has an outstanding colour, very deep and complex fruit aromatics and the tannins are becoming quite voluminous and quite fine. In another few weeks when it has begun to settle it will be really interesting to observe its personality.
On Saturday the 27th of February we bottled the 2009 Pyrette and the 2009 Bindi Composition Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The wines have gone very well into bottle and I expect them to be looking fantastic when they are released in June. The Chardonnay is very vibrant and pure with wonderful intensity. The Pinot is gorgeous for its red fruits and spice and balance. The Shiraz is complex with red and dark cherries, earth and spice and has lovely flair and harmony. The 2009 Quartz, Original Vineyard and Block 5 remain in barrel and will be bottled in July for release in October.
We have also disgorged and packed some 2003 Chardonnay/Pinot Sparkling for release in June. It has had six years on lees and is super intense and focused.
Thankfully we have dodged the hail and are looking forward to harvesting the fruit this coming weekend. The vines are in excellent health: there is no disease despite the frequent rain and humid weather.
The 2010 Pyrette Shiraz has fermented well and is resting in barrel. It has an outstanding colour, very deep and complex fruit aromatics and the tannins are becoming quite voluminous and quite fine. In another few weeks when it has begun to settle it will be really interesting to observe its personality.
On Saturday the 27th of February we bottled the 2009 Pyrette and the 2009 Bindi Composition Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The wines have gone very well into bottle and I expect them to be looking fantastic when they are released in June. The Chardonnay is very vibrant and pure with wonderful intensity. The Pinot is gorgeous for its red fruits and spice and balance. The Shiraz is complex with red and dark cherries, earth and spice and has lovely flair and harmony. The 2009 Quartz, Original Vineyard and Block 5 remain in barrel and will be bottled in July for release in October.
We have also disgorged and packed some 2003 Chardonnay/Pinot Sparkling for release in June. It has had six years on lees and is super intense and focused.
Thankfully we have dodged the hail and are looking forward to harvesting the fruit this coming weekend. The vines are in excellent health: there is no disease despite the frequent rain and humid weather.
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